This website is a great place for those who are trying to find information on specific finch species - many of the most popularly kept species are listed here, with reliable and useful-to-know information specific to each species. Contacts and links for other sources of information are also listed.

The entire site is easily searchable, and search results are highly relevant, which makes it possible to find exactly what you are looking for, in next to no time.

Throw in the grace notes of dry, wry humour which you will find sprinkled throughout these pages, and you will find you have a well-balanced, informative, and refreshing site which belongs on any finch-lover's 'Favourite' list!

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One of the more reliable breeding of insectivorous species in captivity, which require live food with which to rear their young, still, these birds will manage to forage quite a lot on their own if kept in a large planted aviary. Like most waxbills, and unlike many other finches, they will not do much, if any, damage to the plants, instead preferring to forage on the ground for both dry or sprouting seed, and insects.

The male Fire Finch has a distinctive yellow eye-ring which is most noticeable in individuals of two years or better. The female lacks this ring, but has an indistinct red eyebrow. Each gender carries some small white spots on the breast, generally the females will have a few more of these, on a duller coloured chest than the male's bright red.

The male Fire Finch is overall much brighter in colour than the female, who tends to be mostly brown. She is a paler brown on her sides than she is underneath, and carries only a little red on the cere just above her red beak, and some red on her rump. The male, by contrast, is a deep glossy red on his head and chest, fading to brown on his lower abdomen and vent area.

Young fire finches generally resemble the females, but lack the eyebrow and spots. Usually they will not have attained their full colouration until twelve weeks of age.

Both genders share the identical beak, sporting a bright red bill with a fine black marking down the center. The male has quite a pretty little song, and is aggressive towards other adult males of his species, or any finch which shows a fair bit of red.

Welcome to the Companion Birds ezine

For bird people who care.

Hello! Welcome to the thirteenth issue of Flock Talk - I hope you like what you see! If you have comments, criticisms, or stories to share, please send them to Robirda

Feature Article

This issue, we return to Wilhelm's series of articles on training your pet parrot. Most of this information applies to all pet hookbills, whether large or small.

Please note that this article is meant as a guideline only. It is written in very general terms and intended to create awareness and to encourage the reader to do further research, if more detailed information is desired.

by Wilhelm Kiesselbach

Prior to addressing our pet bird's behavior, we need to take a close look at our own- let's face it, our behavior patterns very often don't promote good relationships even within our own species. It stands to reason that they can be counterproductive when dealing with a sensitive creature like a bird.

We must be willing to take a close and honest look at ourselves, with the understanding that we humans have our own behavior patterns. These may vary with different cultures but behind it all is the way each of us perceives and reacts to the world around us.

When dealing with a pet bird, an entirely new set of rules applies. We must seriously consider changing our behavior patterns and adapting them to those of the bird we are working with. It is our first and most important task to build trust. That requires a conscious effort, respect for and love of the bird, and an understanding of its species and their natural instincts.

The relationship must be based on mutual trust and respect. Birds act out of instinct and are not pre-programmed to accept the domination of a human or to trust us. Since their intelligence works in different ways than ours, we have no access to their reasoning and therefore must rely on research and anecdotal information from others' experiences to help us in our attempts to understand.

Here are some very basic and important imperatives -

A parrot cannot ever be punished - never strike a parrot. A parrot cannot ever be scolded. A parrot cannot be locked in the cage until he or she 'behaves'. A parrot must be taught his position in his flock. Not to do this will leave him insecure and unhappy. He is a flock bird first of all and that includes his ability to become a happy member of his human 'flock', with appropriate training.

How to do this -

Be well informed. Be gentle, loving, patient, understanding, and nurturing, and always be aware that his trust, once earned, is given freely. Remember that you are dealing with a wild animal which has been instinctively programmed over millions of years. You must thoroughly understand this, and use your bird's evolved instinctive behavior to help you achieve your goal.

Nothing in this world will force him to be what you want, it must happen through choice, or it will not happen.

The single most important tool in modifying his behavior is the step-up command. It means so much more than just the physical act of stepping up - it indicates the bird's recognition of social order, and means that he voluntarily does what you want him to do, in order to please you.

Please believe this, if nothing else - if you don't teach him to step up on request, your relationship with him is doomed. He won't know his position in his family, and will be unhappy and insecure, no matter how often you tell him that you love him. What's more, the next thing bound to happen is the dreaded biting.

BITING represents the most frequent cause leading to the breakdown of the parrot/caregiver relationship. Biting hurts! Biting intimidates! So very often one bite is all it takes to permanently discourage any social interaction.

The unfortunate bird is locked up in the cage - the romance is over. Interest dwindles, because the bird is 'mean'.

Biting is never the bird's fault. There is always a reason for it. We can identify numerous and different kinds of biting: the fear bite, the domination bite, the replacement bite, the warning bite, and the hormonal bite.

The concept of 'fault' is a human invention. In the bird's world there is only 'cause and effect'. When your bird bites it is 'the effect' (reaction) to a 'cause' provided by us. It is our responsibility to figure out the reason(s) behind the biting, and eliminate them.

The best first rule to preventing biting, is: Don't give him the opportunity. In most cases the bird will give you a warning, either with body language or by 'pinning' his pupils. Distract him, use the step-up command, change the situation.

Don't punish him or put him into his cage to 'cool off' - he won't know why you did it and you will only be creating more problems, in the long run. Noted parrot psychologist Sally Blanchard believes in a stern look (which she calls the 'evil eye') and a firm quiet 'no'. Based on the progress of your relationship this can be very effective.

Don't jerk your hand away, don't yell 'ouch', don't reprimand or play 'earthquake' by shaking your hand. This is negative reinforcement and all you are doing is encouraging a behavior that you are trying to stop. The key to training a parrot is positive reinforcement when he does what is expected of him. This can be delivered through praise, allopreening, or treats, and less obviously but equally important, through quiet composure, expression of respect, and positive body language.

It is essential to understand that the effort to socialize a parrot requires a TOTAL effort including your heart, your soul and your imagination. Anything less won't do, and there are no short cuts, no quick fixes.

In your budding relationship with 'Mr. Wonderful' there are many variables which affect behavior, of which you should be aware. For example, positioning the bird at a level higher than your shoulders will encourage domination behavior. Never carry a parrot on your shoulder, as you are exposing yourself to serious injury. Giving your feathered friend the 'run of the house' is another one - you will be creating a territorial monster, who bites to defend his territory.

Never take a bite personally, it is not meant that way. Taking it personally is a clear indication that you are still within the 'human paradigm' - remember, the bird dances to a different drummer. Watch your own body language, your temper and the messages you may convey by them. Most importantly - Don't Show Fear!

Parrots love drama and will try to control us, and our fear provides them the means to both, both high Drama and easy control. Specific guidelines on how to deal with biting appear in every parrot behavior book available on the market. In my opinion, biting in most cases is caused by our lack of understanding the bird, by incorrect handling, and lack of proper socialization.

Besides biting, there are many other indications of a poorly socialized, miserable, unhappy, emotionally neglected parrot, such as feather plucking, screaming, or phobias. All indicate that something is wrong. Most of these kinds of problems can be corrected.

A visit to a good avian vet is the first step to take, to be certain the bird is healthy. Tests should include those for the presence of heavy metals, especially zinc. After that your challenge begins - first modify your own behavior so that you can help your feathered friend to modify his. Read, seek advice from experts and most of all, have patience. When you think you are running out of patience, conjure up more - these habits can take months, or longer, to correct, and it is essential that you persist. There is no quick fix in helping one of these birds.

Becoming the caretaker of a pet bird, especially one of the larger species, requires a sense of responsibility that goes far beyond providing a suitable living space. It means making a commitment that begins with education, learning about one of nature's most unusual creations. In many instances it means we must be willing to modify our own behavior, and eliminate our own ignorance and thoughtlessness.

Please remember -that cute baby bird you brought home is destined to grow up and go though different stages of adolescence with all the inherent symptoms, just as will a teenage human. Starting your behavior modification routines when your new flock member is a baby will make life a lot easier on both you and him. Please, never buy a parrot on impulse, never buy an unweaned baby, and never buy from a pet store.

Recommended Reading;

'My Parrot, My Friend', and, 'The Pleasure of Their Company'

by Bonnie Munro-Doane.

'Companion Parrot Handbook' and 'Pet Bird Report' monthly publication.

by Sally Blanchard.   www.petbirdreport.com/

'My Human, My Slave'

by Echo Bird and Dust Bunny 'Too as told to Elizabeth Aaron   www.toolady.com/

'The Complete Bird Owners Handbook'

by Gary A. Gallerstein, DVM

by Wilhelm Kiesselbach
copyright © Feb 18, 2001
http://www.nd.edu./~kkiessel/

ISSN #1492-8132
Issue Number 13
Copyright © 2001
all rights reserved
no reprints without permission

A wooden clothespeg, clipped across two upright cage bars for stability, will offer a short space for one individual bird to sit comfortably.

Spaced a few inches apart around perimiter of the top part of an aviary, such a solution can help immensely in solving the squabbles which often erupt over perching spaces when roosting for the night.

"I have heard that cuttlebone is not good for the health of canaries, at least that it isn't a very good source of calcium. Is this true?"

My answer;

"In my opinion, no, it's not. Cuttlebone is an excellent source of minerals, including calcium, for all pet birds - although some hookbills will shred it just for fun sometimes, and can waste a fair bit of it.

"Please note that birds also require a sufficient vitamin supply in order to fully metabolize minerals, and that vitamin D in particular cannot be added to the diet other than through supplementation or full spectrum lighting.

"What it comes down to, is that all the various elements of a diet are important, not just one or another.

"That said, however, I know of people who have given no other source of minerals than cuttlebone to their birds for up to twenty generations, who have very healthy birds. I'd say this is a good indication of the utility of cuttlebones in aviculture.

"Old sources will tell you that cuttlebones need to be soaked, cleaned and desalted - this is true only if you picked them up off the beach or skinned them out of the fish. The cuttlebones available in the stores these days have, in most cases, already been fully prepared.

"Good luck, eh? Hope this helps!"

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Well, I guess that's it for this time - hope everybody has a safe and happy time over the next couple of weeks! The next issue is due out March 4 - until then, may you and your birds enjoy all the best of everything!

Robirda
February 18, 2001
www.robirda.com